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The buzz about tattoos

January 13th, 2010

Buying and selling. Media. Conversations. Writing. Photography. Celebrity gossip. School. Is there any area of society and the workplace that the Internet hasn’t profoundly affected?

tattoos The buzz about tattoosTattooing.

Most tattoo businesses have nifty Web sites, yes, but you still have to go to a shop to get inked up. You have to sit next to a stranger who grips the part of your body that’s getting tattooed. And the needle goes in, putting marks permanently on your body. There’s no virtual substitution for the smell of burning flesh. Like photo galleries of famous paintings, you can’t truly appreciate the artistry of tattooing until you experience the details in person.

Tattoo conventions have changed little since www became as big a part of our lives as coffee in the morning. When the eighth annual Star of Texas Tattoo Revival takes place Friday through Sunday at Palmer Events Center, the main attraction, as always, will be an exhibition hall filled with the buzz of tattoo machines, as artists from all over the world work in their booths. Tattoo collectors travel from near and far to get worked on by such noted tattooists as Austin’s main man Chris Trevino, who splits time between his Perfection Tattoo on Guadalupe Street and a shop in Osaka, Japan. Some of the other big-name artists listed as coming are Megan Hoogland of Minnesota, Chad Koeplinger of New York Adorned in Brooklyn, world traveler Shanghai Kate, known as the godmother of American tattooing, and the infamous Gil Monte.

The Lucky Daredevil Thrill Show of sword swallowing, flaming hula hoops and other stunts will take place at 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 5 p.m. Sunday.

There are contests each day for best tattoos. At night, the old-timers hang out in hotel rooms and tell stories, while the young turks of the trade chase the party downtown. Just like it’s been since Dave Yurkew put on the first tattoo convention in Houston in 1976.

One big change is that there is body piercing in abundance these days. The practice was banned as an unworthy offshoot of tattooing at the first few tattoo conventions in the late ’70s. But, then, in the late ’70s Aunt Nancy wasn’t packing more brass than a roadie for Kool and the Gang. Piercings and neck tattoos, both considered ultimate outsider markings three decades ago, barely raise an eyebrow today, when ‘tattoo convention’ isn’t the oxymoron it once was.

Also, there’s more gimcrackery — jewelry, T-shirts, lighters — for sale these days at the tat swap meets. The Ed Hardy brand has shown there’s a market for the imagery of tattooing, especially if you can get Zac Efron to buy in.

As the tattoo business has exploded since Tupac stopped buttoning his shirts and schoolgirls flipped for lower back tribal tattoos, there are many more tattooers and so there are many more conventions than in the old ’secret society’ era, when tattooing equipment was not made available to the general public. The Star of Texas Tattoo Revival is one of more than 20 similar confabs across the country each year, with the biggest being Mario Barth’s annual fall show at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, the Austin show is about a fifth the size.

There used to be only one convention annually in the States, and it moved to a different city each year. Of those low school reunions, none was more influential than the 1982 Tattoo Expo on the Queen Mary in Long Beach, Calif. Organized by Triple-E Productions — Ed Hardy, Ed Nolte and Ernie Carafa — the Queen Mary convention was a coming-out party for tattooing as an art form. With suits and ties required in each of the five ship restaurants, the setting was intentionally highbrow. There was a symposium room for slide shows and lectures on such subjects as symbolism in Japanese tattooing and an overview on tattoo culture by UCLA professor Arnold Rubin.

1982 was when tattooing officially put on the beret. Through the work of Hardy, Don Nolan, Mike Malone, Greg Irons, Miss Roxy, Leo Zulueta and others working on the Queen Mary that weekend, tattoos started becoming viewed as more than permanent decals drilled into drunken sailors.

But no one could have predicted just how popular permanent skin adornments would become. In 1985, there two tattoo shops in Austin; 25 years later there are more than three dozen, not counting all the scratchers working at home.

‘Tattooing really grew when women started getting tattooed,’ says Shanghai Kate, who was refused a clipper ship tattoo in 1972 because, ‘women were only allowed to get little squirrels or rabbits or hummingbirds.’ Certain parts of the body, such as the upper arm, were deemed exclusively male tattoo spots.

‘I went to the pharmacy the other day and the cute, petite woman at the counter had full sleeves (intricate arm tattoos), with no attempt to cover up,’ Kate says, giving an example of how attitudes toward tattooing have changed. It used to be that you couldn’t work in food service, even McDonald’s, if you had a visible tattoo. But if Emily Post were writing these days, she might suggest that it’s good manners to compliment your server’s skin art before you order.

Kate points to the popularity of tattoo magazines such as Skin & Ink and International Tattoo for adding to the expansion of the marketplace. ‘There used to be one or two,’ she says of the ink-splashed glossies. ‘Now there are hundreds.’ The old-timers wonder when the wave is going to peter out, but thanks to TV shows such as ‘Miami Ink,’ the tattoo craze hasn’t let up. ‘Who do rock stars look up to?’ Kate asks rhetorically. ‘Tattoo artists.’ Meanwhile, every basketball game on TV looks like a two-hour infomercial for the tattoo trade.

Conventions allow the curious and the casual a chance to get a close-up look at the tattoo experience — and maybe get hooked. ‘It’s like we all show up and create a big theme park in a convention center,’ Kate says of the dozen or so conventions she works at each year. ‘It’s Disneyland for tattoos.’

Ed Hardy’s Tattoo Art Is Booty for Digital Pirates

November 13th, 2009

Don Ed Hardy, the famed tattoo artist, must smell good. Make that really good. Ed Hardy-themed perfumes have become some of the most popular fragrances in the world with retailers buying $85 million worth of them so far this year.

ed hardy

Mr. Hardy’s colorful and exotic tattoo designs-cum-artwork seem to help sell just about anything. Cruise around the local mall or online and you will find Ed Hardy sweaters, jeans, shower curtains, golf carts, nasal strips and lollipops.

Thirty-five years after Mr. Hardy opened his first San Francisco tattoo studio, to only a trickle of foot traffic, his North Beach shop Tattoo City is known the world over as the place to go for vivid murals on flesh.

Were Sailor Jerry, his gruff mentor, still around, he might be bewildered and a bit aghast to find that licensees of the Ed Hardy moniker expect to move more than $700 million in merchandise this year. Tattoos have gone mainstream and then some, thanks in part to Ed Hardy.

But now a business inspired by San Francisco’s nautical past is being hijacked by its digital present. And Google, the search giant located 40 miles away on the Peninsula, inadvertently enables the piracy.

Backers of the Ed Hardy name find themselves in a constant battle with counterfeiters who quickly and easily create  Ed Hardy Web sites, almost indistinguishable from the real sites, and then try to manipulate Google’s search and advertising systems. The end goal is to make sure people hunting for Ed Hardy gear online find the fake goods first, lining the pockets of pirates, largely based in China.

That Mr. Hardy ever ended up at the center of a global brand and counterfeiting maelstrom is rather remarkable. “In the early days in the city, I might do one tattoo and then wait three days to do another,” Mr. Hardy said in a recent interview. “I think it’s funny and totally surreal to see what’s happened.”

Neil Cole, the chief executive of Iconix Brand Group, which just bought a stake in the Ed Hardy franchise and keeps track of its worldwide sales, said: “It’s a phenomenon that has happened over the past few years. We’re looking at this booming business that is now starting to hit Asia and Europe.”

Growing up in the Newport Beach community of Corona del Mar, about 50 miles south of Los Angeles, Mr. Hardy fell in love with tattoos during a time in which they were anything but broadly accepted by mainstream society.

In the 1960s, a large city might have just one tattoo artist, who usually operated out of a non-descript shop. “In those days, everything was very secret,” Mr. Hardy said. “It was a cash business, and tattooers were classed as the lowest form of humanity, so you kept to yourself.”

The tattoo artists were visited most often by an assortment of sailors, military personnel — always appreciated because they showered regularly and were polite — and bikers who picked from limited, preset pictures.

Mr. Hardy, along with a few others in the field, hit on the idea that people ought to have more options and a chance to pick from customized, sweeping designs. He would talk with a client and then set to work, crafting what amounted to body murals rather than the stereotypical anchor and mom pictures.

Over the years, Mr. Hardy built a reputation as one of the most creative tattoo designers, intermixing Asian, Californian and American themes throughout eye-popping pictures.

“I just wanted to develop it as a challenging medium,” Mr. Hardy said. “It was just stupid that everything had to have black outlines.”

About five years ago, the French fashion designer Christian Audigier decided to create an Ed Hardy line of clothing, wrapping the tattoo designs around the arms of sweaters and down the legs of jeans so that people could put their counter-culture statements in the closet at night rather than making lifelong commitments.

Today, celebrities from Madonna and Britney Spears to reality TV stars are often seen in Ed Hardy by Christian Audigier gear, and grousing celebrity and fashion Web sites have noticed. Mr. Cole said the Ed Hardy brand has entered a delicate stage where it is important to keep it “cool and fashionable” without being overexposed.

“An Ed Hardy golf cart that costs a few thousand dollars is a wonderful status symbol,” Mr. Cole said. “But, when I see an air freshener that goes for $3, it’s time to pull back the reins.”

Control, however, seems a tough thing to come by when it comes to the Ed Hardy brand. Just as some of the brands’ backers look to narrow the Ed Hardy product line, counterfeiters around the globe have taken matters into their own hands.

Dave Rosenberg, the managing director at Mr. Hardy’s licensing company Hardy Way, has authorized police raids at factories in Israel, Mexico, Australia and in the United States where fake Ed Hardy merchandise was being produced. Recently, Mr. Rosenberg stumbled upon a counterfeit Ed Hardy shop in the Mission district of San Francisco.

But the biggest threat to the brand comes from online raiders who copy the content from legitimate Ed Hardy Web sites word-for-word and picture-for-picture. People searching for “Ed Hardy Hoodies” will find a host of fake sites that offer the gear at huge discounts.

A number of cases have gone through the courts trying to create firmer rules for blocking competitors and others from buying advertising words tied to a particular brand, although the law remains opaque.

“This is a particularly difficult situation and is what lawyers politely call an unsettled area of law,” said Mark F. Radcliffe, an intellectual property lawyer at DLA Piper.

Mr. Rosenberg must keep track of ads pointing to fake sites and submit removal requests to Google on a regular basis. “Even if Google gets one, they just set up another site and ads in a matter of minutes,” he said. “The counterfeiters are so much faster than Google.”

In June, Google released what it billed as an improved trademark-abuse complaint system, giving people an online form to fill out if they think nefarious types have bought ads to promote counterfeit goods. Google now acts on complaints within days rather than months as it had in the past, Mr. Rosenberg said.

But the fake Ed Hardy sites lurking in Google’s regular search results are likely to be around for a while. Google’s search algorithms are designed to deal with the entire Web and are less flexible when it comes to blocking individual sites. And the counterfeiters have devised effective means of making themselves attractive to Google’s algorithm, experts say.

Knowing that the algorithm favors sites linked to by many other sites, the counterfeiters create both bogus sites that link back to the main counterfeit site, not to mention fake blogs with thousands of computer-generated posts and comments.

Ultimately a brand’s success may be measured by the lengths counterfeiters are willing to go to in a bid to cut in on the action. “The better the brand is the worse the problem is,” Mr. Cole said.

As for Mr. Hardy, his tattooing services are no longer available at Tattoo City. (The going rate for a real tattoo is $200 per hour for tattoos from other artists. ) He has set up a nearby studio for painting and other projects.

“I tattooed for 40 years,” he said. “That’s enough.”

Teen sleuths meet tattoo wear in “The Ed Hardy Boyz”

October 24th, 2009

If you’re among the people who’ve watched the Ed Hardy label grow from a line of T-shirts and trucker hats festooned with colorful tattoo flash art (think leaping tigers, geishas and top-hatted skulls) into a ubiquitous lifestyle brand that currently includes air fresheners, pet clothing, bedding, energy drinks, a Vegas nightclub and even wine, you’ll probably appreciate a new video at humor website FunnyOrDie.

ed hardy

Titled “The Ed Hardy Boyz: The Case of the Missing Sick Belt Buckle,” the parody mash-up of Franklin W. Dixon’s teen detective series and Christian Audigier’s colorful clothing line follows the adventures of Bobby Bottleservice (Nick Kroll) and Peter Paparazzo (Jon Daly) as they try to recover the titular belt buckle for Audigier.

Almost as funny as the story itself (which I won’t spoil for you), is the universe of Ed Hardy ware employed to comic effect — from the real Ed Hardy notebooks, steering wheel covers and bottled water, to the faux Ed Hardy Vodka for Children and a foodstuff branded with the Ed Hardy logo that closes the sketch.

Before you cut out of your cubicle for the weekend, I suggest checking it out. It may be the the funniest four minutes and 19 seconds of apparel parody you’ll watch all week (OK, at this point it’s probably the only four minutes and 19 seconds of apparel parody you’ll watch all week).

And if Audigier’s half as good a sport as he is a brand builder, he might seriously consider tapping Kroll and Daly to solve a series of “Ed Hardy Boyz” viral video mysteries.

“The Case of the Oversize Energy Drink,” anyone?

– Adam Tschorn

Teen sleuths meet tattoo wear in "The Ed Hardy Boyz"

October 24th, 2009

If you’re among the people who’ve watched the Ed Hardy label grow from a line of T-shirts and trucker hats festooned with colorful tattoo flash art (think leaping tigers, geishas and top-hatted skulls) into a ubiquitous lifestyle brand that currently includes air fresheners, pet clothing, bedding, energy drinks, a Vegas nightclub and even wine, you’ll probably appreciate a new video at humor website FunnyOrDie.

ed hardy

Titled “The Ed Hardy Boyz: The Case of the Missing Sick Belt Buckle,” the parody mash-up of Franklin W. Dixon’s teen detective series and Christian Audigier’s colorful clothing line follows the adventures of Bobby Bottleservice (Nick Kroll) and Peter Paparazzo (Jon Daly) as they try to recover the titular belt buckle for Audigier.

Almost as funny as the story itself (which I won’t spoil for you), is the universe of Ed Hardy ware employed to comic effect — from the real Ed Hardy notebooks, steering wheel covers and bottled water, to the faux Ed Hardy Vodka for Children and a foodstuff branded with the Ed Hardy logo that closes the sketch.

Before you cut out of your cubicle for the weekend, I suggest checking it out. It may be the the funniest four minutes and 19 seconds of apparel parody you’ll watch all week (OK, at this point it’s probably the only four minutes and 19 seconds of apparel parody you’ll watch all week).

And if Audigier’s half as good a sport as he is a brand builder, he might seriously consider tapping Kroll and Daly to solve a series of “Ed Hardy Boyz” viral video mysteries.

“The Case of the Oversize Energy Drink,” anyone?

– Adam Tschorn

How much is enough for Ed Hardy?

October 23rd, 2009
Ed Hardy Color in "Love Kills Slowly"

Ed Hardy Color in "Love Kills Slowly"

It is said that art imitates life and vice versa. With fashion very much being art, it makes sense that fashion trends influence over how we women paint our faces. Lip and eyeshadow colors go in and out of season, just like clothing, although there will always be classics like little black dresses, smoky eyes and red lips.

Recently, Miami Ink’s/LA Ink’s reality star and tattoo artist Kat Von D has launched her own tattoo inspired collection of fragrances & makeup palettes. Following suit is Ed Hardy, who has just recently released two makeup palettes, called Ed Hardy Color, in a kit called “Geisha” and another called (of course!) “Love Kills Slowly”.

Both kits include:

  • 6 eyeshadows
  • 6 lip glosses
  • Bronzer
  • Perfumes
  • 3 applicator brushes

One really neat thing that sets the palettes apart from any others I’ve seen: The box that houses the makeup lights up so you can have good lighting for application.

Overall, the colors are pretty classic and include eyeshadows you can use to follow the season’s trendy grey eyeshadow and heavily smoked eyes. The only thing truly trendy about the kits is the box design, and of course the Ed Hardy moniker.

Ed Hardy Color in Geisha

Ed Hardy Color in Geisha

And now? I’ve pretty much seen it all. Ed Hardy bottled water, vodka, clothes, air fresheners, lighters, dog clothes, key chains…the list goes on and on! Ed Hardy has capitalized off anything he can slap his name and logo on, making millions in the process, while subsequently engaging in a heated legal battle with designer Christian Audigier.

Meanwhile, the clothing lines continue to be a favorite with celebs from New York to LA and everywhere in between; the Ed Hardy website states that they have a following of over 5,000 celebs from athletes to actors. Some include rapper Fabolous and the ever obnoxious, always in the media as of late Jon Gosselin, who has pretty much turned into Hardy’s posterboy. (Frankly, I wouldn’t be surprised if he buys this for one of his young girlfriends.)

Ed Hardy Clothing

Ed Hardy Clothing

Fabolous & Jon Gosselin Wearing Ed Hardy (Isn’t it ironic what Jon’s shirt says?) Who wore it best: Fab is clearly the more fabulous of the two to me!

I’m not sure how well received these makeup palettes will be. What do you ladies think?

Is this taking a trend too far?